Bayan-Ölgii, Mongolia

Bayan-Ölgii is an aimag (province) in far western Mongolia. It’s home to 100,000 people (mainly ethnic Kazakhs) and more than 1.5 million livestock. It’s the country’s only Muslim-majority region, whereas the rest of Mongolia is predominantly Buddhist. Bayan-Ölgii is most famous for its Kazakh eagle hunters who domesticate and train wild eagles for hunting prey. These include foxes, hares, and wolves. Hunting is conducted on horseback, and the prime season is early October to early February. Riders carry their eagle on their right arm and supported by a baldark (forked wooden support fitted to the saddle). This collection of western Mongolia photos is from a ten-day trip spent with a group of eagle hunters. It also served as a training ride for a horseback trip across eastern Kazakhstan. Uppsala University has a collection of historical western Mongolia photos taken by early 20th-century Swedish missionary Erik Joel Eriksson. 

Apart from being an excellent place to arrange independent multi-day horseback riding trips, the western part of the country has plenty of hikes, backcountry skiing and mountaineering opportunities. The west has two national parks: Altai Tavan Bogd, on the Russian-Chinese border and Tsambagarav-Uul, which is south-west of Ölgii and less visited. Altai Tavan Bogd is home to Khüiten (4,356 m), the country’s highest peak, and as part of the park are Tsagaan Salaa’s 10,000 rock paintings dating back to the Neolithic to Bronze Age. You can access Bayan-Ölgii via a flight or shared taxi from Ulaanbaatar, but beware the overland journey takes over two days of non-stop driving, but the entire drive passes through spectacular scenery. There are several fixers and travel agencies running trips to the area. Whoever you choose be sure to work with someone who knows the area well, has extensive contacts, and ideally speaks Kazakh — Bek Travel and Blue Wolf are two Bayan-Ölgii-based operators.

A Kazakh boy in winter grins while holding two horses either side of him.
Three horses and riders ride across dry Mongolian steppe towards snowy mountains.
Old Mongolian-Kazakh eagle hunting man sat on top of his beautiful white horse.
A Kazakh boy lifts up his younger brother for the camera, both playfully smiling.
Two Kazakh guys trying to control a wildly kicking horse whose front legs are tied.
A close up photo of a Kazakh boy smiling with his cheek next to his horse.
Jamie and two horses pose for the camera on top of a small hill.
Khovd River, Western Mongolia on a sunny day with a mountain in the distance.
Three eagle hunters riding across a frozen river on horseback holding eagles.
Dalaikhan, a master eagle hunter, holds a hunting eagle on his right arm and looks at the camera.
An eagle with a hood on its head, sat on the back of a motorcycle in the sun.
A Kazakh man and his child sat on top of their motorcycle playfully posing for a photo.
A Kazakh eagle eagle looks at the camera, sat on the ground, with one leg crossed.
An eagle hunting eagle with a hood over its eyes to keep it calm.
Winter sunset beside the Khovd River, with golden forest and mountains in distance.
A Kazakh man with one leg crossed holds his eagle.
Hundreds of goats stood in front of a yurt with a big cloud overhead.
A teenage eagle hunter crouching down in front of his horse and holding an eagle.
Three horse and two men ascend over a dry and cold Mongolian mountain pass.
A little Mongolian Kazakh boy sat on top of a baby yak smiling.
A close up photo of Mongolian house structure showing diagonal wooden beams, mud and cement.
A wide shot of a Kazakh man riding over a tall and snowless mountain in winter.
A Mongolian horseman pulls his packhorse up a mountain dusted in light snow.
A Kazakh eagle hunter on horseback training his eagle to catch a pelt of wolf fur.
Close up photo a horse hoof having a shoe hammered on to it.
Black and white photo of Kazakh horse men in Western Mongolia shodding a horse.
A family of six Kazakh nomads on a snowy day pose for the camera with the youngest sat on a motorcycle.
Three guys on horseback riding toward the camera with dry mountains in the background.
A packrafter descends a cold Khovd River with dry forest and rocky mountain in background.
A Kazakh boy wearing a wool hat and traditional clothing holds a dombra musical instrument.
Three eagle hunters with eagles on arms look into the distance.
A far shot of Jamie towing his packraft on a frozen stretch of the Khovd River in Mongolia.
A landscape photo of snowy hills and a flat plateau with a few gers in the distance.
Khovd River with snow covered hills in the background.
Winter time photo of packrafter paddling down the Khovd River.
Three Kazakh eagle hunters in Western Mongolia sat on their horse and holding eagles.
A far shot of three eagle hunters stood on top of a hillside with their horses.
Alpamys wearing a face scarf riding on his horse and towing the pack horse behind.
Jamie on a very cold day beside the Khovd River in Mongolia looking a camels in the distance.
A cute black Mongolian dog lying on the ground with his tongue out.
Mongolian Bactrian camels in a forest in winter with snow on the ground.
A mid-shot of two Kazakh men hammering a shoe on to a horse's hoof.
A ground shot looking up at a man riding on his horse and a horse tail covering half the image.
A teenage boy and his Mongolian horse with bridle look into the distance.
A Kazakh woman holding a dombra instrument, stood in front of her disassembled yurt.
A herd of camels walking across a barren stretch of Mongolian steppe.
Kazakh eagle hunter crouching down and smiling as he puts a ground stake in the soil for his horse.
A serious-looking, but friendly, Kazakh woman looks into the camera.
A Mongolian man wearing traditional clothing stood beside his motorcycle.
A Kazakh man and woman talking inside of a ger in Western Mongolia.
Jamie, Alpamys, a dog, and three horses riding towards remote snowy Mongolian mountains.
A cat curled up on top of a yurt roof and sleeping in the sun.
A close up photo of Alpamys wearing a red hat and colourful face scarf in western Mongolia.
An older Mongolian-Kazakh eagle hunter holds his eagle on top of his gloved hand.
A camel stands beside a river and in front are nomad's personal possessions ready for packing.
Kazakh eagle hunter crouches on ground, holding a rope connected to his horse.
A family of four Mongolian Kazakhs pose for a photograph at the breakfast table.
A horse tied up, lying on its side, awaiting to be shod with shoes.
Jamie Maddison wearing a green gillet, sits in front of a green floorless tent in the morning.
Night time photo in central Mongolia repairing a broken car tire.
Alpamys and Jamie walking past the camera with four horses on a snow, flat part of Western Mongolia.
A green Nemo pyramid tent in a treeless forest beside the Khovd River in Western Mongolia.
Jamie walking beside the Khovd River in winter with a packraft on his back.
An open air snooker parlour in Olgii, western Mongolia, with dozens of men playing.
Jamie holding two horses atop a small Mongolian hill with a cairn.
The downtown square of Olgii, western Mongolia.
A close up photograph of a serious looking brown eagle in front of a yurt.
A very wide shot of a dry and cold mountain plateau with two eagle hunters at the bottom of the image.
A crippled Mongolian man poses for a photo, propping himself up with his crutch.
Eagle hunter holding eagle, sat on a horse, looking out over a wild expanse of Mongolian plateau.
A golden fur dog stands proudly for the camera on a sunny morning.
Kazakh horseman riding on horseback and towing a pack animal with a rope.
Three Kazakh guys hold a horse on the ground that's tied up with rope.
Very close up look at a wooden yurt door with multi-coloured paint flaking away from age.
A night time shot of a green tent beside a frozen river in moonlight.
A lone rider and his horse ascending up a mountain.
Three horses and two guys loaded with equipment, riding across a flat Mongolian steppe.
Alpamys towing horse and walking over a mountain top. Dressed in khaki clothing and boots.

My photography has been published in the following outlets:

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Men's Running black text logo.
The New York Times logo.
Alpinist Magazine's logo.
ExplorersWeb online adventure news outlet logo.
Love Nature's logo with multiple colours and textures.
Russian Life logo in blue text.
Sidetracked Magazine logo in black and white.
Ripcord Adventure Journal logo in red, black and white.
Trek & Mountain Magazine's logo.
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Action Asia Magazine logo.